Different types of Sarees from West India

1. Bandhani Saree
This dyeing style hails from Rajasthan and Gujarat. Bandhani as the name means the Tie and dye. These are sarees created by dyeing the cloth in such a manner that many small resist-dyed ‘spots’ produce elaborate patterns over the fabric. These spots can vary from a chickpea size to that of a football. The design is carried out on synthetic, cotton as well as Silk. Most common patterns in bandhni are dyed in the two contrasting colors. These patterns are normally on the border and the Pallu. Red and black is the most common color combination but other pairs of colors are also found. For instance, the panetar saree is a Gujarati-Hindu saree of satin weave and Gajji silk with red borders, central medallions and a white body, which may contain regularly spaced red tie-dyed spots. Single color sarees and Dupatta with white spots are also very common. The most common of such dyeing pattern is Garchola. It is the traditional wedding saree of Hindus and Jains. It is usually colored red, but occasionally green also. Earlier the fabric used for Garchola saree was cotton but now they are in silk.

2. Patola Saree
This is the most time consuming process. It is one of the famous saree created in western region of India. The thread used in weaving saree is usually dyed in five colors in both warp and weft before weaving. The most expensive style in this patola saree is the Double ikat patola saree and is always rare. A cheaper alternative to double ikat patola is the silk ikat saree developed in Rajkot (Gujarat) that creates patola and other geometric designs in the weft threads only.

3. Gujarati Brocade
These Gujarati Sarees are extremely expensive and are virtually extinct. The main distinguishing characteristics of Gujarati Brocade Saree are: Butis (circular designs) woven into the field in the warp direction instead of the weft, resulting in their lying horizontally instead of vertically on the saree when draped. Floral designs woven in coloured silk, against a golden (woven zari) ground fabric. Although such ‘inlay’ work is a common feature in many western Deccan silks, the Gujarati work usually has leaves, flowers and stems outlined by a fine dark line.

4. Embroidered Tinsel Sarees
In earlier days The Rabaris amd Sodha Rajputs of western region had an embroidered tradition. This tradition was known as Tinsel. Soon it became a famous embroidery pattern and was used on sarees. Since then it is usually used on sarees. The Mughal Emperors were the ones who introduced zardozi (the gold and silver gilt thread embroidery technique) to India. The saree with zardozi work is today an inextricable part of bridal clothing. The other popular forms of tinsel embroidery are Balla tinsel and khari work.

5. Paithani
This pattern of saree originated in the State of Maharashtra and is named after a village near Aurangabad. These sarees are now woven in the town of Yeola also. These sarees use an enormous amount of labour, skill and sheer expanse of material in the process of creation and the final piece is worth to be a piece of your wardrobe. Distinctive motifs such as parrots, trees and plants are woven into the saree. The bright shades of the saree vary from vivid magenta, peacock greens and purples. The border and the pallu are usually in contrast with the saree color. In the pallav, the base is in gold and the pattern is done in silk, giving the whole saree an embossed look.

6. Chanderi and Maheshwari
The Chanderi sarees of Madhya Pradesh are very light and are appropriate for scorching summers. There sarees are made in either cotton or silk and the patterns are taken from the Chanderi temples. The Maheshwari sarees are usually green or purple in color with a zari border and like chanderi sarees these sarees are also made in cotton and silk. The famous tussar block printed sarees can also fe found here with traditional and contemporary designs. Balla tinsel and khari work are the cheaper variations available in metallic embroidery, which have also become quite popular.

7. Gadwal cotton Saree
Gadwal sarees, not to be confused with Garhwal Sarees of Garhwal, are made in cotton in a style influenced by the Banarasi sarees. Here the base of the saree is usually plain or in self-checks and the borders are either Resham (silk) or Zari. Generally copper or Gold dipped Zari is used in these sarees. The popular motifs used in these sarees are rudraksh and peacock. The color combination of the base and the border is in contrast. Traditional colours for these sarees are earth shades of browns, greys and off-whites. However, it is believed that the bright color Gadwal sarees were introduced later on for the North Indian buyers.